We’re proud to say that when it came time to choose accessory brackets to convert this 6.0 truck engine, John chose Kwik Performance.

Look for a full feature story in Muscle Car Power magazine.

John used both the Kwik AC compressor bracket and the Kwik alternator/power steering pump bracket.

The Custom Shop, 206 S. Main Flanagan IL. 61740 815 796 2772 www.customshop.org

At the top of the list would the following models:

4665 and 4645

These are later versions which are made for R134 refrigerant. They both have 7-groove pulleys and they work fine even though your GM belt is only a 6-groove.

Here’s what different about the two models:

The 4645 has the following features not found on the 4665:

1. High pressure relief valve on the back plate.
2. Rubber dampers on the clutch armature plate. Slightly quieter operation.
3. 300 cc oil capacity instead of the 240 cc in the 4665.

Most people will find these are minor differences and we recommend which ever one you can find the best deal on.

If your parts counter person doesn’t recognize the four-digit model numbers, have them search for the following applications:

4645:
Same as:
Freightliner truck ABP N83 304953
Peterbilt or Kenworth truck 4645SAN
Volvo truck 85100864
CarQuest 274073

4665:
Same as:
Volvo truck 85100887
CarQuest 275088

GM is almost as bad as Ford about making changes and having dozens of different part numbers for the same basic part. In the case of PS pump pulleys, having some variation is a good thing.

So far, we’ve found 6-groove serpentine pulley diameters from about 5.25″ to 6.625″. This difference will change the RPM of the pump relative to the engine RPM but for most street applications, you probably won’t register much difference in actual steering feel.

In the photo below, you’ll see one other important difference besides the diameter. Notice that the smaller pulley has access holes while the larger one does not. When selecting a pulley, we really recommend finding one with the holes. Otherwise, any time you want to install or remove the pump, you’ll have to pull the pulley to get to the bolts that mount the pump. That’s not a super big deal if you have the right puller and the right installer tool. But, with most engine swap projects, you’re likely to be installing and removing components several times during your build and then pulling and pressing on a pulley becomes a pain in the butt.

And just one more point: As usual, Corvette parts have to be a little different. In this case, the shaft diameter of most Corvette pumps is .66″. All other Type II (or TC) pumps including Camaros, Firebirds, and most other GM passenger cars are .75″ diameter. So, choose your pump pulley accordingly.

This conversion may be necessary if you’re using our Kwik Performance driver’s side bracket kit. Why do you need our bracket kit at all? Most likely for three reasons:

1. You have a Camaro, Firebird, or GTO engine with the alternator down low and the power steering pump up top. Your LS1 or LS6 engine swap project may have clearance issues with a steering box or you may not like the idea of power steering fluid leaking down and frying your alternator. The Kwik kit puts the alternator up top and the pump down low–like the Corvette position.

2. You have a truck/SUV engine and the alternator is too high, maybe causing hood clearance issues.

3. You have an LS1, LS2, LS6, LS7 or other crate engine or a swap meet engine with no brackets at all. You can run our driver’s side bracket by itself or you can team it up with our air conditioning compressor re-location bracket kit. Either one works alone or in tandem.

If you’re using a F-body engine and you have the original power steering pump, all you have to do is remove the plastic reservoir by driving off two spring clips and giving the reservoir a good tug. You’ll see a plastic sleeve that may come off with the reservoir or may stay in the pump. The sleeve may also have an o-ring. Pull out the sleeve and you’ll be ready for the instructions below.

If you’re using a truck or SUV engine, 4.8, 5.3 or 6.0, you’ll most likely have a Type I (or P) style pump. This is the older Saginaw pump design with an attached metal reservoir. In this case, you have to track down a Type II or TC pump. Almost any GM car from the late ’80s on will be a donor candidate.

Here’s one from a Pontiac Montana van for example:

And here’s one that looks completely different because of the attached plastic reservoir but the pump body is identical. This one is from a 2005 GMC Envoy (same as Chevy Trailblazer).

You can also find good deals on reman units at your local parts store. For example, if you ask for a pump for a 1990 Chevy Celebrity with a 2.5L engine, your local NAPA store will probably charge you around $65 plus a $5 core charge. If you ask for a 2000 Cavalier, you’ll get what appears to be the same pump but you’ll pay about $75 plus a $55 core charge. I’m sure there are minor pressure and output differences but not enough to matter in most street driven vehicles.

Oh, and there’s usually a supplier or two on eBay offering reman units for even less and with no core charge. (Usual disclaimer about checking feedback ratings, etc. before doing business with eBay members).

OK, here’s one way to set up a remote reservoir. We’re going to use factory GM parts from a late Corvette. If you want to buy them new, here are the GM part numbers:

Reservoir 26046502
Bracket 12555222
Return tube 26006074

The photos below show how to install the return tube. When you first look at the return opening on the pump, the place where the reservoir used to connect, you may think that the new return tube you just paid about $30 for, won’t fit. That’s because the hole in the pump has a step. The outer diameter is about .75′ and the inner, stepped diameter is the .625″ that matches the new return tube.

The return tube will be a press fit. The simplest way I found to do the job is to lube up the end of the tube, hold it in place, slide a 5/8″ open end wrench over the tube just above one of the beads, and then tap gently on the wrench with a hammer. Keep moving the wrench around the tube as you hammer to keep the tube going in straight.

Next, bolt on the GM bracket using the two upper/inner bolts than hold the Kwik bracket to the cylinder head. After that, just slide the reservoir down over the spring tabs on the bracket.

Here’s what it looks like with the reservoir in place.

Now, you’ll see two tubes sticking out the bottom of the reservoir. One is a small tube where the fluid returns to the reservoir from the steering box. The other is a larger, 5/8″ tube that points down and back. Here’s where you attach a feed hose from the reservoir down to the pump. This is a non-pressure hose but does need to be an oil-resistant type of hose (no heater hose here).

OK, that one way to do it. A second way, slightly more complicated, we’ll cover in a later post. The second way involves tapping the power steering pump for a threaded fitting so you can run stainless braided hose or other hydraulic hose with threaded fittings.

And, if you’re working with a larger budget, a third way is to source an aftermarket pump that’s already equipped with a threaded fitting. These pumps are often used in racing or off-road applications. Check Summit Racing or Jeg’s for more info.

Some people don’t really care for the GM rotary air conditioning compressor, however.  So here’s how you can replace it with the most popular aftermarket compressor–the Sanden 508.

For some reason, the most common multi-groove pulley, the one that Vintage Air and others sell, is a 7-groove, while the GM belt is a 6-groove.  No matter, with what I’m about to share, you simply use the rear 6 grooves and leave the front one empty.

The Sanden has two sets of four mounting ears, 1 set at the front, 1 set at the rear.  To start, simply place one of the front ears just behind the inner hole on the GM bracket.  Temporarily stick a longer bolt in the matching rear hole.  You’ll see that you’ll need a short spacer or even just a stack of washers to connect the rear holes.

Then make a short “link” to connect the outer holes of the compressor and the bracket.  I used 3/8″ material.  The length of this link can vary depending on how much valve cover clearance you need.  I was able to keep the center of the compressor shaft in approximately the same location as the GM compressor.  You’ll see that you will also need a short tube spacer to connect the link to the bracket.  You could make a matching rear link but just the one seems really sturdy.

This mounting system puts the Sanden at a 45 degree angle from it’s normal position.  The Sanden website says 45 degrees is acceptable and maintains the inner lubrication.

Here’s an overview.  You’ll notice that in this case, the small block brackets are actually still on a small block.  But you get the idea.

Here are the inner ears.  The front one (to your left) is a direct mount.  The rear one requires a short tube spacer.

Notice that the connecting link also needs a short tube spacer to connect the outer ear of the Sanden to the outer hole on the GM bracket.

 By the way, if you have any interest in updating those early pickups, this fellow, Robert Hertz, sells a body mount kit that parks the early sheet metal on an S-10 chassis, giving you instant power steering, disc brakes and other modern conveniences.

Robert’s web site is :  www.AD-Engineering.com

It’s just one more way we’re trying to make your LS engine swap Kwik and easy.

This new bracket kit mounts the alternator and power steering pump in a position similar to the Corvette LS engine–alternator up top with the PS pump below.

We think this will be especially popular with anyone trying to use an F-body engine (Camaro, TransAm, plus GTO) in some early chassis.  Or anyone using a 5.3 or 6.0 truck/SUV engine and has a hood clearance issue with the high-mount alternator.

 It makes a perfect companion to the air conditioning compressor bracket we introduced some time back.

To see pictures, CAD drawings, installation instructions (or the “Buy it now” button if you’re so inclined) just click on this link:

http://kwikperf.com/lsx_alt_ps.html

Both bracket kits are available to match any of the three GM crank pulley positions.  If you want to see how to figure out which pulley you have, just click on this link:

http://kwikperf.com/pdf/kwik_tips_id_lsx_front_drive.pdf

 When one cylinder went dead I followed the usual diagnostic procedures.  Find the dead cylinder.  Number 1 cylinder.  Does that cylinder have spark?  Yes.  Does it have fuel?  Yes.  Does it have compression?  No.  Hmmmm.  Number 1 cylinder is a DOD cylinder.  Maybe the DOD system is malfunctioning.  Can we shut off the whole DOD system?  Let’s find the solenoid valve wires and unhook them and see what happens.  Hmmmm.  Can’t find the wires in the harness.  Can’t find a connector at the back of the valley cover.

More research.

Turns out some SUV’s have all the DOD mechanism in place but it’s non-functional.  No wires.  No program in the ECM.  Why?  The short wheelbase Envoy and Trailblazer didn’t have enough room for the muffler GM thought was necessary to keep owners from noticing when the engine would cycle back and forth between four and eight cylinders. 

My engine was taken from a short wheelbase Envoy so the DOD was already be dis-engaged.  That’s when I leaned about the special oil pressure regulator and its relationship to the solenoid valves (see previous post).

If I had known all this stuff when I first bought my engine I could have prevented all these problems with one simple step:  Install a valley cover from a Gen IV, non-DOD engine.  Turns out all Gen IV engine blocks have the special oil ports that go from the valley area down to the lifter bores.  Non-DOD valley covers have no oil feed and of course, no solenoid valves.  Plus, they simply block off these lifter ports with O-rings. 

I found a valley cover from an LS2 Corvette but only after I had already killed the lifters.  Since I had to replace lifters on both banks, I pulled the heads and replaced all the lifters with conventional LS lifters.  This requires the appropriate lifter guides as well.

If you aren’t familar with LS roller lifters, you may not understand the role of lifter guides.  They are a rectangular plastic piece with holes for four lifters or two cylinder’s worth.  The bores into which the lifters fit have a shape that keeps the roller on the lifter lined up with the cam lobe.  The DOD guides have a unique shape for the DOD lifters to keep you from interchanging with the non-DOD lifters.

By the way, I’ve been told that all LS lifters, (non-DOD versions) are the same.  Mine came from a guy who buys warranty engines and sells the good internal parts.

My engine swap project is back on track.  Or, I should say, back on the road.  It’s running on eight cylinders.  All the time.  Like a real engine should. 

Does that mean you should avoid DOD engines?  No.  If you follow a few tips.

 1.  If you can use the donor oil pan and the DOD is active, it doesn’t complicate wiring in an engine swap because it’s pretty much self-contained between the ECM and the engine.  And you should pick up a few miles per gallon.

2.  If you need to swap oil pans, then I would recommend you also swap the valley cover and forget DOD.  The lifters will be fine if they don’t get any extra oil flow.

3.  If you want to install an aftermarket cam, then replace the DOD lifters and guides with conventional pieces.  Just be sure that the number of teeth on the reluctor match your ECM.

4.  If you need to swap oil pans and you really want to keep the DOD feature, you might figure out a way to adapt the DOD oil pressure regulator into the new pan.  Not a challenge I want but if you decide to try it, let me know the results.

In summary, I believe the DOD or AFM engines are good candidates for engine swaps for one main reason:  Price.  The demand is still low.  Many engine swappers will be afraid of them, keeping demand low.  Supply is going up as more vehicles are wrecked.  That means prices will stay low.

I gave $1500 for an all-aluminum, 300 horse, 5.3 with 17,000 miles.  Plus $500 for a matching 4L60e transmission.  Even after replacing lifters and the valley cover, even after replacing the tall SUV intake with an LS2 intake and water pump, I still have less invested than a Camaro or Corvette version.  And those would likely be much higher miles.

So I say, “DOD may have killed my engine swap (temporarily) and I was pi**ed off (also temporarily) but now all is forgiven.” 

Next time I’ll give you some ways to identify DOD or AFM engines.

However, GM has to meet federal standards for their total mix of vehicles so they have developed new ways to squeeze every possible mile out of a gallon of fuel.  Shutting off four cylinders of a V-8 is one of those ways.  GM first called this system, “displacement on demand” or DOD for short.  Now, for reasons unknown, they’ve changed the name to “active fuel management” or AFM.  These systems started showing up in Gen IV engines around 2005.

So, what’s not to like?  Eight cylinders when you want power, four cylinders for highway cruising sounds like a cool deal, right? 

You bet.  Until gearheads like us start swapping parts around with unintended consequences.

 Let me give you a brief tour of how DOD works:

1.  When cruise conditions are right, the engine control module (ECM) does three things to shut off four cylinders–1.) Turns off ignition coils, 2.) Turns off fuel injectors, 3.) Dis-engages valve lifters.

2.  Turning off coils and injectors is a simple electronic signal. 

3.  Turning off lifters is a little more complicated. The DOD lifters have two sections, one of which can slide inside the other.  Under normal load, the two sections are held together by small, spring-loaded pins.  When it’s time to shut off, extra oil pressure is sent through a special port.  The pressure overcomes the springs and the two lifter halves are now separate.  The lower half continues to follow the cam lobe while the upper half takes a vacation and just sits around doing nothing.

4.  The extra oil flow is regulated by four solenoid valves which are located under the valley cover.  And this is where our story takes a nasty turn.

First, let me tell you about my engine.  I bought a DOD 5.3 engine out of a 2005 GMC Envoy (same as Chevy Trailblazer) for several reasons:  It was low mileage, only 17,000.  It was light weight because it is all-aluminum.  It was inexpensive because there’s little demand yet.  Plus, I thought it would be cool to have the latest high-tech engine in a 20 year old BMW.  It would be the perfect engine swap:  Older, light weight car with a light weight, high horsepower engine.  German handling with American power.  Just perfect.

First thing I did to help the 5.3 fit into my BMW was to swap the Envoy SUV oil pan for a Pontiac GTO pan.  The GTO pan has a front sump and works like it was made for a BMW.

Here’s the nasty part.  What I hadn’t learned yet was that the SUV oil pan has a special oil pressure regulator built into the top of the oil filter ports.  I also didn’t understand that the solenoid valves up in the valley cover are not a typical “off-or-on” type valve.  They are a “on-a-little bit, then, on-a-lot” type valve.

So use your imagination.  If we send unregulated oil pressure to a “always-on-a-little-bit” valve and if enough gets by the valve to overcome the springs on the little pins inside the DOD lifters, and if the lifters disengage without the coils and injectors also disengaging…..well, I can tell you from personal experience, it ain’t pretty.

Here’s scenario for disaster:  The intake valve opens normally on one stroke, we take in a fuel/air mixture, both valves close, we compress and fire the mixture, we get a power stroke–OK so far?  Now, our exploded fuel/air mixture is expecting to find an open exhaust valve.  But let’s just say that this is moment when our exhaust lifter got a little extra oil pressure and decides to disengage and the exhaust valve stays closed.  Now we’re re-compressing our exploded mixture and our poor intake valve wants to open.  Talk about pressure.  It’s enough pressure to collapse and kill the lifter.

I killed one.  I replaced it.  It ain’t easy.  You have to pull the head.  It ain’t cheap.  The DOD lifter is $70 plus the head bolts are one-time use.  I replaced the lifter before understanding why it died.  So I killed two more.  Then the car sat for two months while I searched for the cause.

Next installment, I’ll tell you how I fixed the problem for good.  And I’ll give you my opinions about whether DOD or AFM engines are something to avoid like the plague or something we learn to embrace.

Wayne